I think the water pump has just failed, loss of water and very noisy managed to get home, is there anything unusual I should look out for when replacing the pump|||There are a couple issues to watch for when changing the water pump. First of all, check the serpentine belt auto-tensioner, these are famous for %26quot;seizing%26quot; and will not put the proper tension on the belt when re-installed. You can check this before starting the job by simply pulling up on the belt and make sure the pulley assembly pivots and returns to it%26#039;s original position EASILY. If it doesn%26#039;t, replace it. The second concern is filling the cooling system after you change the pump. The easiest way is to unbolt the coil-pack, and remove the Coolant Temperature Sensor, located in the intake manifold. With the sensor removed, fill the cooling system until coolant runs out the hole, then re-install the sensor and coil pack. Finish filling the cooling system, and make sure the overflow jug is at the full mark. Recheck the coolant level after a couple warm-up/cool-down cycles. Also, to remove the three bolts that hold the pulley to the pump, I wedge a square -shafted screwdriver between two of the pulley bolts, and loosen the third. Rotate around until all three bolts are loose. Tighten them in the same manner. Those are about the only %26quot;tricks%26quot; you should need to know, changing the water pump is very basic on this vehicle, very good instructions have been given above. The one critical item i want to mention is to TORQUE the water pump to housing bolts in a criss-cross pattern (like a tire) to 105 in/lbs. to prevent leaks. HTH, Good Luck!|||an engine with issues??? hell i can%26#039;t even deal with my wife%26#039;s issues and now i find out engines have issues too...good grief!!!|||Essentially, it doesn%26#039;t matter what the vehicle is, the following would apply.
Many times, a cooling system has an explosive
decompression because a hose has split, or the thermostat has stuck in the closed position, preventing full coolant circulation and causing a localised pressure build-up, which seeks out the weakest point in the cooling system. Some makers build in a plastic plug which is screwed, like a bolt, into an alloy housing. The plug fails at a specific high-pressure, the steam lets you know something%26#039;s wrong, and you take action.
You shouldn%26#039;t really have limped it home... You could have killed the engine in doing so. Perhaps the head-gasket has cooked? Is there oil in the water?
First replace any split hoses and failed hose clips, remove and inspect the thermostat, checking that it opens in a jug of hot water - keep adding water from a boiling kettle, and check at what temperature it opens. Top up the whole system and restart the engine, check for leaks and noise from the water-pump.
If the pump seems to have failed, follow the manual to remove all the engine ancillaries which obstruct access, such as the alternator and the radiator, and then begin to remove the pump. Pumps are usually alloy casings, with steel bolts running through them. This causes a chemical-reaction type of weld-like corrosion to occur, %26#039;gluing%26#039; the bolts to the alloy pump housing, and if you attack the bolts too briskly, it is VERY EASY to snap them, and then you%26#039;re in big trouble! Use a 3/8%26quot;, or even a 1/4%26quot; ratchet, with a good quality socket on the bolts, and use a gentle pressure, building up very slowly, over perhaps a minute, until the bolt just starts to turn. When it has gone half a turn, go 1/4 turn back, then one turn out, then a little back, then all the way out, slowly, with a no-hurry attitude. Think bomb-disposal!
Keep the bolts on a piece of card, marked with their positions, as they are often different lengths. Fit the new pump with a gasket and sealer as per the vehicle manual, and oil the bolts before refitting. Do the bolts up very gently, all about the same, and then tighten them with a torque wrench, to the specified value. It is VERY, VERY EASY to snap a flange off the edge of the pump, by over-tightening a bolt, and you don%26#039;t want to do that!
Good luck!|||Don%26#039;t put attention to insomniac , now you know where the name is coming from, no there are no issue but you don%26#039;t say what year,after 2002 is a little harder, before 2002 shouldn%26#039;t take more than half an hour working at home|||No, not really.. Jack the vehical up, drain coolant, drain is on drivers side, bottom of radiator. Remove belt guard, loosen waterpump pully bolts, remove belt., remove pully bolts and pully, remove waterpump bolts, remove waterpump. Put a little rtv on new pump were gasket sits and reverse removal procedures. Fill cooling system. Run it till all the air purges from the system. I use the coolant funnel for this. The hardest part is bleeding the air out of the system....
