Friday, June 3, 2011
Dows anyone know or have diagrams on changing water pump on a 1994 Buick Park Avenue?
Im stuck on 1 bolt I cannot get out, it is the lower bolt right by the strut..........any ideas on what tool to use to get it out? Thank you in advance for your answer.|||Try using a slim profile combination wrench. If that doesn%26#039;t get you access to the bolt, you may have to loosen a motor mount and jack the engine up slightly (gently) to raise the motor to get the necessary clearance. I hope you have a Chilton%26#039;s or Motor Age manual handy.
I am changing the water pump on my '95 Maxima. How lose is the chain around the pump supposed to be? I am...
sure I have turned the crank 20 degrees and removed the tensioner but still don%26#039;t have enough slack. Is it safe to turn the crank more than 20 degrees? Thanks.|||Ray did you start at top dead center? If not put the tensioner back in and bring the timing mark back up or BE SURE BY removing the back bank #1 spark plug and bring the piston all the way up. Then remove the tensioner and with a friend your finger on the chain tensioner rail have the crank turn counter clock wise approx 20 to 30 degrees you will feel the chain guide rail bottom out. Now is there enough chain slack? Did you find the special block drain hole? under the thermostat drain the coolant then use 2, 8mm bolts pull out the pump replace the pump using Vasoline on the two different size O rings the new pump should slide all the way in then rebolt the 3, 6mm bolts.
Note when you start up the car it will rattle really bad! Chain slack with old sytle tensioner and rails may take 30 minutes to quiet down. And Most of all do not rev the engine it may jump timing and break off exhaust valves. Keep the Rpms low until the rattle gos away.
Note when you start up the car it will rattle really bad! Chain slack with old sytle tensioner and rails may take 30 minutes to quiet down. And Most of all do not rev the engine it may jump timing and break off exhaust valves. Keep the Rpms low until the rattle gos away.
Would yo uuse a Chemical Flush, or Radiator Conditioner, before changing hte Water Pump?
At this point, i think i should use the Radiator Conditioner.. BEFORE i change Water Pump, of course.. im wondering what %26quot;Priming%26quot; a Cooling System means. Seems the white %26quot;Froth%26quot; i saw, indicative of Cavitation, needs to be remedied.. so i can either:
1) Flush System with Chemical Flush, Run Water Through, Repeat (I can do Radiator, then engine, it will all be off anyways for Water Pump...)
2) Put %26quot;Conditioner%26quot; in there and then refill with Coolant; OR
3) use %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; or something, and then do the same.
I %26quot;Flushed%26quot; it roughly 5000 miles ago, letting water run through and exit the Upper Radiator Hose. until it ran %26quot;Clear%26quot; but i never took the Lower Hose off, as i cant get to it.
So, i %26quot;topped Off%26quot; the Cooling system too, and my car ONLY has an Expansion Tank to add.. it is the %26quot;Radiator Cap%26quot; i suppose you could say...
If you were me, how would yo uSABE mY Cooling System? Water Pump will be Replace.d. What do i do BEFORE? Do i 1) FLUSH, OR 2) %26quot;Condition%26quot; to perhaps Coat something that is wearing Thin, or 3) %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; to be on the Safe side, THEN Refill?
2992 Olds Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iorn Duke%26quot; Tech4, 180,000 miles.. Water Pump %26quot;Weeping%26quot; i see Drips at start-up AND i saw a white %26quot;Froth%26quot; think layer.. the Flush i put in was the same color, but that was new because i did that a long time ago. Thanks!|||Hello Binky. good to hear from you again.|||Blue Devil
1) Flush System with Chemical Flush, Run Water Through, Repeat (I can do Radiator, then engine, it will all be off anyways for Water Pump...)
2) Put %26quot;Conditioner%26quot; in there and then refill with Coolant; OR
3) use %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; or something, and then do the same.
I %26quot;Flushed%26quot; it roughly 5000 miles ago, letting water run through and exit the Upper Radiator Hose. until it ran %26quot;Clear%26quot; but i never took the Lower Hose off, as i cant get to it.
So, i %26quot;topped Off%26quot; the Cooling system too, and my car ONLY has an Expansion Tank to add.. it is the %26quot;Radiator Cap%26quot; i suppose you could say...
If you were me, how would yo uSABE mY Cooling System? Water Pump will be Replace.d. What do i do BEFORE? Do i 1) FLUSH, OR 2) %26quot;Condition%26quot; to perhaps Coat something that is wearing Thin, or 3) %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; to be on the Safe side, THEN Refill?
2992 Olds Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iorn Duke%26quot; Tech4, 180,000 miles.. Water Pump %26quot;Weeping%26quot; i see Drips at start-up AND i saw a white %26quot;Froth%26quot; think layer.. the Flush i put in was the same color, but that was new because i did that a long time ago. Thanks!|||Hello Binky. good to hear from you again.|||Blue Devil
Changing out the water pump, what else should I replace while I have all that disassembled?
95 mazda 626 LX
I just want to know the names of the parts so I can go buy them, and if they need replacing I%26#039;ll have the part handy and not have to go back and forth to the store. I can always return what I don%26#039;t use.
I%26#039;m not doing this alone, a more mechanically inclined friend offered to help.|||if the old pump is still on you should also drain and flush the cooling system. there is always debris and loose corrosion in the system that you dont want inside your new pump.|||you might as well change the timing belt while it,s torn apart. that way you know the belt is good.|||put new upper and lower radiator hoses on it as well as a new thermostat|||If there is a timing belt on that engine it should be replaced.
I just want to know the names of the parts so I can go buy them, and if they need replacing I%26#039;ll have the part handy and not have to go back and forth to the store. I can always return what I don%26#039;t use.
I%26#039;m not doing this alone, a more mechanically inclined friend offered to help.|||if the old pump is still on you should also drain and flush the cooling system. there is always debris and loose corrosion in the system that you dont want inside your new pump.|||you might as well change the timing belt while it,s torn apart. that way you know the belt is good.|||put new upper and lower radiator hoses on it as well as a new thermostat|||If there is a timing belt on that engine it should be replaced.
Anything complicated about changing the water pump in a 1993 Eagle Summit? I have been offered the car to buy?
and dont have it in front of me, but they said thats what it needs. Secondly, for an average skilled backyard mechanic, how much time would you allow for the job??
TIA!!!|||That car%26#039;s water-pump is driven by the timing belt. Gonna be a long time to repair, and thus get the timing back right when you are trying to put it back together.
TIA!!!|||That car%26#039;s water-pump is driven by the timing belt. Gonna be a long time to repair, and thus get the timing back right when you are trying to put it back together.
I need help with changing water pump on 89 ford bronco?
ok, heres the deal. i have a 89 ford bronco 5.0 302. ive started to change the water pump. i removed the fan shroud, the fan, the belt, i removed all the bolts attached to the pump.. but ive hit a snag. the far right bolt that went on the pump is also attached to some seel piece thats also holding up the alternator.. doesnt look like a bracket because its really think. my question is do i remove this? because 2 of the wheels are also attached to this. (by wheels i dont mean tires lol) its wheels that the belt went around.|||yes make sure you rember what bolts go in what hole some are longer then other but yes it all has to come off to get the water pump out|||Future reference pick up a repair manual for your truck, it will assist you in other jobs you may tackle and have a step by step help.
How much does it cost to change timing belt and water pump for Honda car?
My car model Honda civic 2002. 4 engines, 1.7L. Should I change water pump at the same time?|||The timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner are a pain in the neck to reach, and will all cause major problems if they fail. Expect to spend $200 to $300 on labor to replace any one of the three, or the same labor to replace all 3. Parts will set you back about $100.|||I would, should not be more than 4 hours plus parts. A belt is only about 40 dollars and an exchange pump less than 100. you may need a new tensioner about another 40 bucks
How to change water pump on 1996 GMC Jimmy?
Hubby is trying to change the water pump on our GMC Jimmy. He cannot get the fan off to access the water pump. What is the trick here? He%26#039;s trying to do more of the maintenance on our cars to save $$$$ --but it sure is a bear!|||First look at the new water pump, you will notice the threads are either left or right hand threaded. Once you have determined the thread direction, you will know in what direction to remove the fan. Take a large drift punch and place it on the high side of the fastening bolt. strike it with a hammer and the jolt will loosen the grip of the bolt and allow you to remove it. This may take several tries, but it does work, I have used the process numerous times.|||try turning bolts backwards or a sharp tap on wench
you can try typing into search box
how to replace water pump
how to replace water pump video
how to remove fan blade
you can find most car repairs this way as well more likely just tight and needs a good wack some are left hand turn hold blade of fan or dont remove belt first might help|||If it is a mechanical fan remove the bolts and he may have to TAP on it. at the base where the bolts come out.If its electric just nuts,bolts, screws or clips will hold it in place If he cant get it after this email me and ill ask my son if he knows he had the some truck for 6 years he may know ill try to check my email often .
you can try typing into search box
how to replace water pump
how to replace water pump video
how to remove fan blade
you can find most car repairs this way as well more likely just tight and needs a good wack some are left hand turn hold blade of fan or dont remove belt first might help|||If it is a mechanical fan remove the bolts and he may have to TAP on it. at the base where the bolts come out.If its electric just nuts,bolts, screws or clips will hold it in place If he cant get it after this email me and ill ask my son if he knows he had the some truck for 6 years he may know ill try to check my email often .
Is there any issues regarding changing the water pump on a Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3 AWD?
I think the water pump has just failed, loss of water and very noisy managed to get home, is there anything unusual I should look out for when replacing the pump|||There are a couple issues to watch for when changing the water pump. First of all, check the serpentine belt auto-tensioner, these are famous for %26quot;seizing%26quot; and will not put the proper tension on the belt when re-installed. You can check this before starting the job by simply pulling up on the belt and make sure the pulley assembly pivots and returns to it%26#039;s original position EASILY. If it doesn%26#039;t, replace it. The second concern is filling the cooling system after you change the pump. The easiest way is to unbolt the coil-pack, and remove the Coolant Temperature Sensor, located in the intake manifold. With the sensor removed, fill the cooling system until coolant runs out the hole, then re-install the sensor and coil pack. Finish filling the cooling system, and make sure the overflow jug is at the full mark. Recheck the coolant level after a couple warm-up/cool-down cycles. Also, to remove the three bolts that hold the pulley to the pump, I wedge a square -shafted screwdriver between two of the pulley bolts, and loosen the third. Rotate around until all three bolts are loose. Tighten them in the same manner. Those are about the only %26quot;tricks%26quot; you should need to know, changing the water pump is very basic on this vehicle, very good instructions have been given above. The one critical item i want to mention is to TORQUE the water pump to housing bolts in a criss-cross pattern (like a tire) to 105 in/lbs. to prevent leaks. HTH, Good Luck!|||an engine with issues??? hell i can%26#039;t even deal with my wife%26#039;s issues and now i find out engines have issues too...good grief!!!|||Essentially, it doesn%26#039;t matter what the vehicle is, the following would apply.
Many times, a cooling system has an explosive
decompression because a hose has split, or the thermostat has stuck in the closed position, preventing full coolant circulation and causing a localised pressure build-up, which seeks out the weakest point in the cooling system. Some makers build in a plastic plug which is screwed, like a bolt, into an alloy housing. The plug fails at a specific high-pressure, the steam lets you know something%26#039;s wrong, and you take action.
You shouldn%26#039;t really have limped it home... You could have killed the engine in doing so. Perhaps the head-gasket has cooked? Is there oil in the water?
First replace any split hoses and failed hose clips, remove and inspect the thermostat, checking that it opens in a jug of hot water - keep adding water from a boiling kettle, and check at what temperature it opens. Top up the whole system and restart the engine, check for leaks and noise from the water-pump.
If the pump seems to have failed, follow the manual to remove all the engine ancillaries which obstruct access, such as the alternator and the radiator, and then begin to remove the pump. Pumps are usually alloy casings, with steel bolts running through them. This causes a chemical-reaction type of weld-like corrosion to occur, %26#039;gluing%26#039; the bolts to the alloy pump housing, and if you attack the bolts too briskly, it is VERY EASY to snap them, and then you%26#039;re in big trouble! Use a 3/8%26quot;, or even a 1/4%26quot; ratchet, with a good quality socket on the bolts, and use a gentle pressure, building up very slowly, over perhaps a minute, until the bolt just starts to turn. When it has gone half a turn, go 1/4 turn back, then one turn out, then a little back, then all the way out, slowly, with a no-hurry attitude. Think bomb-disposal!
Keep the bolts on a piece of card, marked with their positions, as they are often different lengths. Fit the new pump with a gasket and sealer as per the vehicle manual, and oil the bolts before refitting. Do the bolts up very gently, all about the same, and then tighten them with a torque wrench, to the specified value. It is VERY, VERY EASY to snap a flange off the edge of the pump, by over-tightening a bolt, and you don%26#039;t want to do that!
Good luck!|||Don%26#039;t put attention to insomniac , now you know where the name is coming from, no there are no issue but you don%26#039;t say what year,after 2002 is a little harder, before 2002 shouldn%26#039;t take more than half an hour working at home|||No, not really.. Jack the vehical up, drain coolant, drain is on drivers side, bottom of radiator. Remove belt guard, loosen waterpump pully bolts, remove belt., remove pully bolts and pully, remove waterpump bolts, remove waterpump. Put a little rtv on new pump were gasket sits and reverse removal procedures. Fill cooling system. Run it till all the air purges from the system. I use the coolant funnel for this. The hardest part is bleeding the air out of the system....
Many times, a cooling system has an explosive
decompression because a hose has split, or the thermostat has stuck in the closed position, preventing full coolant circulation and causing a localised pressure build-up, which seeks out the weakest point in the cooling system. Some makers build in a plastic plug which is screwed, like a bolt, into an alloy housing. The plug fails at a specific high-pressure, the steam lets you know something%26#039;s wrong, and you take action.
You shouldn%26#039;t really have limped it home... You could have killed the engine in doing so. Perhaps the head-gasket has cooked? Is there oil in the water?
First replace any split hoses and failed hose clips, remove and inspect the thermostat, checking that it opens in a jug of hot water - keep adding water from a boiling kettle, and check at what temperature it opens. Top up the whole system and restart the engine, check for leaks and noise from the water-pump.
If the pump seems to have failed, follow the manual to remove all the engine ancillaries which obstruct access, such as the alternator and the radiator, and then begin to remove the pump. Pumps are usually alloy casings, with steel bolts running through them. This causes a chemical-reaction type of weld-like corrosion to occur, %26#039;gluing%26#039; the bolts to the alloy pump housing, and if you attack the bolts too briskly, it is VERY EASY to snap them, and then you%26#039;re in big trouble! Use a 3/8%26quot;, or even a 1/4%26quot; ratchet, with a good quality socket on the bolts, and use a gentle pressure, building up very slowly, over perhaps a minute, until the bolt just starts to turn. When it has gone half a turn, go 1/4 turn back, then one turn out, then a little back, then all the way out, slowly, with a no-hurry attitude. Think bomb-disposal!
Keep the bolts on a piece of card, marked with their positions, as they are often different lengths. Fit the new pump with a gasket and sealer as per the vehicle manual, and oil the bolts before refitting. Do the bolts up very gently, all about the same, and then tighten them with a torque wrench, to the specified value. It is VERY, VERY EASY to snap a flange off the edge of the pump, by over-tightening a bolt, and you don%26#039;t want to do that!
Good luck!|||Don%26#039;t put attention to insomniac , now you know where the name is coming from, no there are no issue but you don%26#039;t say what year,after 2002 is a little harder, before 2002 shouldn%26#039;t take more than half an hour working at home|||No, not really.. Jack the vehical up, drain coolant, drain is on drivers side, bottom of radiator. Remove belt guard, loosen waterpump pully bolts, remove belt., remove pully bolts and pully, remove waterpump bolts, remove waterpump. Put a little rtv on new pump were gasket sits and reverse removal procedures. Fill cooling system. Run it till all the air purges from the system. I use the coolant funnel for this. The hardest part is bleeding the air out of the system....
Changing aquarium water without vaccum pump?
What is the best way to change the water in my 10 gallon aquarium without a gravel pump? Are there any tricks you guys use to simplify this process while saving money, etc?|||Great to see you online again, man. Do what I do for small tanks. Go to Burger King, get a large drink cup (they%26#039;re plastic and waterproof). Wash it well. You got yourself a good sized scoop for changing your aquarium water. Cheap, simple, and it came with soda.|||I wouldn%26#039;t recommend doing it any other way than a siphon, you could use a piece of a garden hose to get the same effect, or something of the like. Gravel filters are all of 7 bucks, why not spend it once and never have to worry about it again?|||well, even IF you want to save money, a gravel vacuum is NOTm something to skip out on. yo can get one for 15$ for a 10 gal.|||there%26#039;s no trick to it. Most people just drink up the water in the tank. This is pretty safe and does not cost any money either.
Good luck!|||Large bore hose with a piece of aquarium safe sponge on the end. The sponge keeps fish from being sucked out, a standard garden size hose will drain 5 gallons per minute. Cruise the neighborhood on garbage day, find an old leaky one %26amp; cut off 5 good feet.
On my setup I have several J shaped pieces of 1/2%26quot; pvc pipe, with the long end attached to a few feet of hose. The short end has interchangable lengths, for depth control, it determines how much water is drained. A sponge goes over the tank end.
The other end goes into a 32 gallon Rubbermaid garbage can. There is a 1400gph pump in the can, with a hose leading to my sump pump, and a foot switch to turn the pump on %26amp; off. I start the siphon, drop the hose in the can, and do something else, draining 5gpm. It stops at a pre-determined level.
To fill I have a drinking water safe RV hose, it has one end attached to the utility sink for temperature control. The other end has a smaller pvc J to hang on the tank, along with a shutoff. Add dechlor on the fly, fill %26amp; drain at the same time, 5 gallons in, 5 gallons out, per minute.
I go through 700-1000 gallons of fresh water weekly, buy Prime in bulk.|||I have to warn you, Tom C is a liar - DON%26#039;T DRINK THE WATER!!! The fish tank is in a closed environment and unlike a river the bacteria builds up to astonishing levels . Drinking the water could give you major diahorrea or maybe even a internal infection
Don%26#039;t be so cheap, get the gravel pump it will do more good than any harm|||You can still preform an effective water change without using a siphon. Aquariums have been around for ages and the siphon is relatively new.
Designate a 1 gallon pitcher for your water changes.
Remove the lid to the aquarium.
Take a cloth and clean the inside of the aquarium glass by wiping it.
Then stir up the gravel to release debris using your hand, or if thats gross, a designated object like a spoon or something.
Then with your gallon pitcher, remove the amount of water you want to change.
(this water is an excellent source of fertilization for plants if you wish to water your plants with the water), if not dispose of the old water where ever you like.
When you are finished taking out the water, add the recommended dose of water conditioner for 1 gallon to the pitcher. Fill the pitcher with clean water and add it to the tank.
Continue to add water conditioner and clean water to the pitcher until the aquarium is full again.
Thats how it was done in the old days.
Good luck.
Good luck!|||Large bore hose with a piece of aquarium safe sponge on the end. The sponge keeps fish from being sucked out, a standard garden size hose will drain 5 gallons per minute. Cruise the neighborhood on garbage day, find an old leaky one %26amp; cut off 5 good feet.
On my setup I have several J shaped pieces of 1/2%26quot; pvc pipe, with the long end attached to a few feet of hose. The short end has interchangable lengths, for depth control, it determines how much water is drained. A sponge goes over the tank end.
The other end goes into a 32 gallon Rubbermaid garbage can. There is a 1400gph pump in the can, with a hose leading to my sump pump, and a foot switch to turn the pump on %26amp; off. I start the siphon, drop the hose in the can, and do something else, draining 5gpm. It stops at a pre-determined level.
To fill I have a drinking water safe RV hose, it has one end attached to the utility sink for temperature control. The other end has a smaller pvc J to hang on the tank, along with a shutoff. Add dechlor on the fly, fill %26amp; drain at the same time, 5 gallons in, 5 gallons out, per minute.
I go through 700-1000 gallons of fresh water weekly, buy Prime in bulk.|||I have to warn you, Tom C is a liar - DON%26#039;T DRINK THE WATER!!! The fish tank is in a closed environment and unlike a river the bacteria builds up to astonishing levels . Drinking the water could give you major diahorrea or maybe even a internal infection
Don%26#039;t be so cheap, get the gravel pump it will do more good than any harm|||You can still preform an effective water change without using a siphon. Aquariums have been around for ages and the siphon is relatively new.
Designate a 1 gallon pitcher for your water changes.
Remove the lid to the aquarium.
Take a cloth and clean the inside of the aquarium glass by wiping it.
Then stir up the gravel to release debris using your hand, or if thats gross, a designated object like a spoon or something.
Then with your gallon pitcher, remove the amount of water you want to change.
(this water is an excellent source of fertilization for plants if you wish to water your plants with the water), if not dispose of the old water where ever you like.
When you are finished taking out the water, add the recommended dose of water conditioner for 1 gallon to the pitcher. Fill the pitcher with clean water and add it to the tank.
Continue to add water conditioner and clean water to the pitcher until the aquarium is full again.
Thats how it was done in the old days.
Good luck.
Changing a water pump in a 92 honda accord?
how difficult and what is the process to changing a water pump in a 92 honda accord
what am i going to need for the job |||all job is common sense,you can do it.
take off radiator and pan.
take off pulley,pulley belt
DO NOT FOR GET to replace the timing belt too.
those two are tween. or else car heat up and more problem |||remove power steering and alternator motor mount harmonic balancer plastic timing chain cover top and bottom raise motor on right towards firewall good luck
what am i going to need for the job |||all job is common sense,you can do it.
take off radiator and pan.
take off pulley,pulley belt
DO NOT FOR GET to replace the timing belt too.
those two are tween. or else car heat up and more problem |||remove power steering and alternator motor mount harmonic balancer plastic timing chain cover top and bottom raise motor on right towards firewall good luck
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Directions on changing a 1997 mitsubishi galant water pump?
Anyone know where I can find directions on how to change a 1997 mitsubishi galant water pump?|||Go to AutoZone and buy the Haynes Auto repair manual for that year and make.. Change the timing belt while your at it..|||get rid of that vehicle nothing but problems.. get a civic.
How do i change water pump on 1996 Ford Probe?
Hi, i need a little help, i need to change the water pump on my 1996 Ford Probe 2.5 24v V6. Does anyone know the easiest way to do it? Im pretty good with engines so would rather change it myself than spend a fortune on labour at a garage!
Thanks in advance!|||I would defo change it myself as the price you would pay a garage to do it would probably be enough to buy another Probe without a broken waterpump.
The car will not be worth what it once was, but that doesn%26#039;t stop it from being a decent car. Buy a Haynes manual and get stuck in, that%26#039;s the best way.
The more maintenance you do yourself the more money you save and the more you get to know your cars insides. And the money you save you can use for petrol (thirsty buggers)!|||if its not different than the 1998 ford contour, this is what I would do.
Remove the serpentine belt
Remove the water pump pulley, not easy. 3 bolts
remove the water pump with the T5(I think) head, 3 bolts
It was easy for my 1998 ford contour. I think it is similar to yours.
Good Luck.|||Your best bet is to purchase a repair manual for your car. Follow the instructions in there without taking any short cuts and you should be fine.|||take off the belt or belts .you may have to take off the motor mount to get the water pump off butt if you have the new one wit you you can just follow where the bolts are to remove then and then put them back in that order to put the water pump back in,. the labor would be a lot but if you have half a day you can do it your self by taking your time to make sure you put the parts back in the same place
Thanks in advance!|||I would defo change it myself as the price you would pay a garage to do it would probably be enough to buy another Probe without a broken waterpump.
The car will not be worth what it once was, but that doesn%26#039;t stop it from being a decent car. Buy a Haynes manual and get stuck in, that%26#039;s the best way.
The more maintenance you do yourself the more money you save and the more you get to know your cars insides. And the money you save you can use for petrol (thirsty buggers)!|||if its not different than the 1998 ford contour, this is what I would do.
Remove the serpentine belt
Remove the water pump pulley, not easy. 3 bolts
remove the water pump with the T5(I think) head, 3 bolts
It was easy for my 1998 ford contour. I think it is similar to yours.
Good Luck.|||Your best bet is to purchase a repair manual for your car. Follow the instructions in there without taking any short cuts and you should be fine.|||take off the belt or belts .you may have to take off the motor mount to get the water pump off butt if you have the new one wit you you can just follow where the bolts are to remove then and then put them back in that order to put the water pump back in,. the labor would be a lot but if you have half a day you can do it your self by taking your time to make sure you put the parts back in the same place
Changing a water pump in a pt crusier?
My pt crusier water pump went out. Are there any tricks to fixing it? My husband wants to take a crack at it because it is 800.00 to have it fixed by a local mechanic here in Spring Hill. If anyone knows any tricks to doing it or where I can get it done cheaper in Spring Hill?! Let me know!!!!|||The water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. If it is not done right, you could cause serious damage to the engine. Actually $800 to change the pump and timing belt is reasonable. To lower the price further you could negotiate buying your own parts. Good luck.|||My neighbor, father in law, and husband fixed it. Everything is running well. :-) Thank God!
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Any one know where i can download a guide to changing my water pump?
i know its a huge task and headache, but i cant afford to take it in|||You can go to most auto part stores and purchase a manule ( haynes) or ( chilton) that will give you step by step , 20.00$ it%26#039;s a great investment. I have went to the haynes auto repair online before and recieved the info i needed. good luck, should%26#039;nt be to hard of a job.|||Your local library should be able to help you out.|||Need more info (car, engine), they aren%26#039;t as hard as they used to be. Taking it apart is the key, take a few photos of it from different angels and write down step by step how you took it apart. Most newer cars have the pumps fixes in a position and only have one V-belt so its easy to remove the pump after that.|||Tell us what kind of vehicle you have. It%26#039;s different on each one, you know.
What do you do when you break a stud off in your block when changing your water pump on a 89 lincon mark 7?
its the long stud that also holds the ac bracket on i think it goes all the way to the head|||pull water pump off. use 5/16th drill bit. drill into broken stud. use easy out. back out old stud. replace old stud with new stud. then try to re-install pump. you can find drill bit and easy out at a auto parts store near you.|||cry cuss and start over|||You use a tap and die. You are probably better off taking this to a mechanic and watching him or her do it. This is not one of those do-it-yourself jobs if you are not familiar with it.|||Maybe you can hold the bracket another way and not have to drill the stud out. The car is old, so try to make due without drilling out the stud and retapping the hole.|||man . if a tap and die dont work you need to drill it out, good luck|||This depends on how much of the stud is still out. If enough of the stud is out I would use a small pipe wrench to carefully turn it while applying heat to the head. if it is broke off flush then u will have to drill and extract it ..
Changing water pump on 2.4L Sunfire?
My car needs a new water pump, obviously.
How long of a job do you think I%26#039;m getting myself into? I don%26#039;t want to take it to a garage unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. My boyfriend and I both have very good knowledge on vehicles, and I am pretty certain the 2 of us can do it ourselves.
It%26#039;s a 2.4L, and from what I%26#039;ve read the pump is much harder to change in this than a 2.2L. How long do you think it will take, assuming we have all of the correct tools?|||that%26#039;s the quad four engine. i%26#039;ve seen mechanics have difficulty replacing them. you have to take down the timing chain to change the water pump. i would strongly reccomend that you take it to a pro. Its not a job for just anyone with some auto knowledge. And you%26#039;re looking at paying 700- 800 dollars at a shop. people don%26#039;t realize this when they buy a quad 4 engine. they%26#039;re gr8 until you have to fix them.|||Ok tools is not the problem on this one. I ihgly reccommend taking this one to a shop. I know Master Technicians that hate doing this job. If I%26#039;m not mistaken that one is ran by the timing chain. That is one of the HARDEST water pumps that we have ever ran into. I know the time is off but I%26#039;m wanting to say that one was a 8-9 hr. job as far as tech time. Which means most anyone that isn%26#039;t familar with that will probaly double. Besides you%26#039;re playing with the chain and that is no joke. A lot of shops will even turn down that one. It%26#039;s the 2.4 Quad. One of the worth designs for engine repair GM ever came up with. Good Luck! and be careful!|||Here you go! Everything you need to know, PLUS PICTURES:)
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
How long of a job do you think I%26#039;m getting myself into? I don%26#039;t want to take it to a garage unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. My boyfriend and I both have very good knowledge on vehicles, and I am pretty certain the 2 of us can do it ourselves.
It%26#039;s a 2.4L, and from what I%26#039;ve read the pump is much harder to change in this than a 2.2L. How long do you think it will take, assuming we have all of the correct tools?|||that%26#039;s the quad four engine. i%26#039;ve seen mechanics have difficulty replacing them. you have to take down the timing chain to change the water pump. i would strongly reccomend that you take it to a pro. Its not a job for just anyone with some auto knowledge. And you%26#039;re looking at paying 700- 800 dollars at a shop. people don%26#039;t realize this when they buy a quad 4 engine. they%26#039;re gr8 until you have to fix them.|||Ok tools is not the problem on this one. I ihgly reccommend taking this one to a shop. I know Master Technicians that hate doing this job. If I%26#039;m not mistaken that one is ran by the timing chain. That is one of the HARDEST water pumps that we have ever ran into. I know the time is off but I%26#039;m wanting to say that one was a 8-9 hr. job as far as tech time. Which means most anyone that isn%26#039;t familar with that will probaly double. Besides you%26#039;re playing with the chain and that is no joke. A lot of shops will even turn down that one. It%26#039;s the 2.4 Quad. One of the worth designs for engine repair GM ever came up with. Good Luck! and be careful!|||Here you go! Everything you need to know, PLUS PICTURES:)
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
Changing water pump on vw polo 1.4cl 1996?
changing water pump on vw polo 1.4cl 1996 auto,
does the cambelt need to be removed to do this?|||Yep it sure does. So I would renew timing belt and tensioner at same time.
does the cambelt need to be removed to do this?|||Yep it sure does. So I would renew timing belt and tensioner at same time.
Changing a water pump on a 1995 Pontiac Sunfire...How long would it take for a highly experienced mechanic?
It%26#039;s a 4 cylinder, coupe, automatic...|||if everyting goes right and it depends on the type of 4 cylinder you have the quad 4 takes about 4 hours|||Anywhere between 1.0 to 3.0 hrs depending on the condition of the adjacent parts, and how many other cars are ahead of you and the ordering of the new parts.
Is it Mandatory to Change the Water Pump when changing the timing belt?
The pump itself isn%26#039;t that expensive, its the labor for all the work getting to it. Just do it now and save yourself money later.|||No, but it%26#039;s recommended.|||no its not mandatory I would definitly if the car has over 60k|||No, but in many models htey have to remove it to get to the belt so they usually sugget replacing it.|||if you have more than a hundred thousand miles on the vehicle it is recommended to change it since it will probably cost you almost the same amount in labor to replace it so you might as well change it|||no but it would be a bad idea not too. if a shop is doing it they will probably charge the same rate to do it all over again if the pump goes 6 months later. if youre doing it yourself thats a huge pain in the *** to go through twice.|||It is not mandatory but I would strongly recommend it becuase it is very common for water pumps to leak on accords after 100k miles, and once the timing and balance shaft belts are off it is only a few more bolts to change it. Most shops usually will charge between .3 and .5 hours extra to change it which is worth it because it is common for them to leak. The other thing I would recommend is going with an oem water pump. There are many cheap remanufactured pumps that often don%26#039;t last very long, where the honda water pumps will, and their usually not that much more expensive either.
What needs to be changed when changing a water pump?
i went to the dealer and they recommended i change the water pump on my 2000 323i wel they said exactly that the water pump bearing is loose and noisy which is actually so what do i need to replace i was looking to order it myself off of bavauto and there a lot of stuff so does anyone know what i need exactly theres a lot of parts on there such as the tensioner belt, pulley but what do i really need|||Without seeing the actual condition of the car giving recommendations like these is kind of dicey.
First is the coolant of course. If the belt tensioner pulley and the deflection pulley are noisy (with its age, I presume they are on the way out), they should also be replaced along with the 2 belts.
If you can afford it, replacing the thermostat is a good option too
(assuming that it has not been replaced previously since 2000).
First is the coolant of course. If the belt tensioner pulley and the deflection pulley are noisy (with its age, I presume they are on the way out), they should also be replaced along with the 2 belts.
If you can afford it, replacing the thermostat is a good option too
(assuming that it has not been replaced previously since 2000).
Is changing the water pump on a 1998 plymouth breeze a hard task?
This car has a 2.4 L DOHC engine.|||It%26#039;s a complex job for the novice mechanic. The water pump on those 4 cylinder engines is located behind the timing belt cover. A rule to live by: if you are not sure how to do a repair, it%26#039;s best left to a professional...labor will cost between $175-$250 plus parts. Just remember since you have to remove the timing belt, go ahead and replace it with a new one since I%26#039;m almost certain it%26#039;s over the maximum replacement interval of 60,000 miles. It%26#039;s also a good idea to replace both cam seals as well as the crankshaft seal. You%26#039;ll already have access to these seals, and even though they may not be leaking now, it%26#039;s only a matter of time if they are the originals. Purchase one of those %26quot;HAYNES%26quot; manuals sold at most Advance stores or Auto zone%26#039;s. Those books cover a wide range of maintenance and repairs, costs around $15.|||it will most likly be a hard task cuz of the lack of room in the engine bay
What is the proper sequence to changing a water pump on a 95 plymouth voyager?
Ive changed them before on other vehicles, this one looks hard to get to.|||What engine do you have? If it is a 3.0 you are looking at a lot of work, on a 3.3 it is not that hard to get to.
If you are doing a 3.0, change the timing belt at the same time!
This should help you
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||1995 Plymouth Truck Voyager V6-201 3.3L
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Water Pump Service and Repair Removal
Removal
Notes
Fig. 6 Water Pump
REMOVE
Drain Cooling System.
Remove Accessory Drive Belt.
Remove right front lower fender shield.
Remove pump pulley bolts and remove pulley.
Remove pump mounting screws Remove pump.
Fig. 7 Water Pump Body
Remove and discard O-ring seal.
Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surface.
INSPECT
NOTE: Replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects.
Damage or cracks on the pump body.
Coolant leaks; if the seal is leaking, evident by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole.
Loose or rough turning bearing.
Impeller - rubs either the pump body or chain case cover.
OR
1995 Plymouth Truck Voyager V6-181 3.0L SOHC
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Water Pump Service and Repair
Service and Repair
Notes
Water Pump And Coolant Tube
Fig. 32 Water Pump Removal %26amp; Installation
NOTE: The water pump bolts directly to the engine block, using a gasket for pump-to-block sealing, Fig. 32. The water pump is driven by the timing belt and is serviced as a unit.
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Fig. 13 Crankshaft Pulley Assembly
Remove crankshaft drive pulleys and torsional damper, Fig. 13.
Fig. 14 Right Engine Mount %26amp; Bracket
Place a jack under engine to support and slightly raise engine, then remove engine mount bracket, Fig. 14.
Fig. 15 Timing Belt Cover
Remove timing belt cover, Fig. 15, then mark belt running direction for reinstallation.
Loosen timing belt tensioner, then remove belt and crankshaft sprocket flange shield.
Drain cooling system.
Remove water pump mounting bolts.
Separate water pump from water inlet pipe Fig. 32, then remove water pump.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Use a new O-ring on water inlet pipe.
Torque water pump mounting bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Refer to Engine/Timing Components/Timing Belt/Service and Repair for timing belt installation and tensioning procedure. See: Engine\Timing Components
ALLDATA LLC.
If you are doing a 3.0, change the timing belt at the same time!
This should help you
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>|||1995 Plymouth Truck Voyager V6-201 3.3L
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Water Pump Service and Repair Removal
Removal
Notes
Fig. 6 Water Pump
REMOVE
Drain Cooling System.
Remove Accessory Drive Belt.
Remove right front lower fender shield.
Remove pump pulley bolts and remove pulley.
Remove pump mounting screws Remove pump.
Fig. 7 Water Pump Body
Remove and discard O-ring seal.
Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surface.
INSPECT
NOTE: Replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects.
Damage or cracks on the pump body.
Coolant leaks; if the seal is leaking, evident by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole.
Loose or rough turning bearing.
Impeller - rubs either the pump body or chain case cover.
OR
1995 Plymouth Truck Voyager V6-181 3.0L SOHC
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Water Pump Service and Repair
Service and Repair
Notes
Water Pump And Coolant Tube
Fig. 32 Water Pump Removal %26amp; Installation
NOTE: The water pump bolts directly to the engine block, using a gasket for pump-to-block sealing, Fig. 32. The water pump is driven by the timing belt and is serviced as a unit.
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Fig. 13 Crankshaft Pulley Assembly
Remove crankshaft drive pulleys and torsional damper, Fig. 13.
Fig. 14 Right Engine Mount %26amp; Bracket
Place a jack under engine to support and slightly raise engine, then remove engine mount bracket, Fig. 14.
Fig. 15 Timing Belt Cover
Remove timing belt cover, Fig. 15, then mark belt running direction for reinstallation.
Loosen timing belt tensioner, then remove belt and crankshaft sprocket flange shield.
Drain cooling system.
Remove water pump mounting bolts.
Separate water pump from water inlet pipe Fig. 32, then remove water pump.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Use a new O-ring on water inlet pipe.
Torque water pump mounting bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).
Refer to Engine/Timing Components/Timing Belt/Service and Repair for timing belt installation and tensioning procedure. See: Engine\Timing Components
ALLDATA LLC.
Can i install a super chip in my 93 mustang, without changing water pump or radiator? and where is the comp?
computer on the fire wall? or under the seat?
this is a inline 4 cyl 2.4|||No you don%26#039;t need to change the radiator or water pump. I want to say the computer is in the passenger side kick panel.|||Not to belittle your car or anything but the only way a 2.4 is worth spending the money on it for a chip is if you scavenged a turbo system off a wrecked svo or t-bird turbo coupe. If not, save your money and buy an LX 5.0 or GT.
this is a inline 4 cyl 2.4|||No you don%26#039;t need to change the radiator or water pump. I want to say the computer is in the passenger side kick panel.|||Not to belittle your car or anything but the only way a 2.4 is worth spending the money on it for a chip is if you scavenged a turbo system off a wrecked svo or t-bird turbo coupe. If not, save your money and buy an LX 5.0 or GT.
I need help on changing out a water pump!?
Can anyone give me direction, and steps on how to change the water pump to a 92 grand am? Or if anyone knows any site i can find this info i have tried everywhere!|||QUADFOUR, 2.5L.......??????QUADFOUR INVOLVES TIMING CHAIN, NOT FUN|||geussing you have a quad 4.not a job for new guys.real son of a gun.got to pull the timing cover AND the water pump.no fun at all.
How much antifreeze goes in a cadillac when changing water pump?
should be close to 1-1/2 to two gallons, use pre mix or 1 gallon anti freeze to 1 gallon water,
fill until the radiator is full then run the car when the thermostat opens it will take fluid into the block being a big block( older caddys) it may take alot. after the level goes down top off radiator.
fill until the radiator is full then run the car when the thermostat opens it will take fluid into the block being a big block( older caddys) it may take alot. after the level goes down top off radiator.
Need a quick check list for changing my water pump.?
Its on a 1995 chry. concorde, 3.3L engine, water pump (WP-890). I%26#039;m pretty sure I need to drain the radiator first, pull the old pump off, install the new one, refill the radiator. I just wanted to get a check list of what to be aware of as this is my first go at changing a water pump, thanx. Oh, and do I refill the radiator with the motor running or off?|||Your checklist about covers the procedure. Refill the cooling system first with the engine of and the bleed screw open. When you get a steady stream of coolant from the valve, close it and finish filling. Then start and warm up the engine to re-check the coolant level.
Handy tip. Use KY Jelly (yes really) on the water pump o-ring to help hold it in place and keep it from getting pinched during installation. DO NOT use grease, Vaseline, etc because petroleum products will deteriorate the o-ring and cause a leak. Have fun.|||Partner you are correct in the list. But change the thermostat also. Fill it cold at first and the leave cap off and bring temp up to operation temp. top off and replace cap and look for leaks.|||Drain the radiator, remove the old pump, clean off old gasket material, apply gasket sealant and gasket, mount new pump, refill radiator with 50/50 solution of anti-freeze and H2O, start engine look for leaks and top off radiator after engine comes to temp and the thermostat opens.|||go to your library and get the repair manual for your car. follow it and you won%26#039;t need a check list.|||save the recipt for the water pump.im supprised that one lasted this long. hire a mechanic he can do the timing belt also its due for one. he already knows there is a bleeder to let the air out as the engine is re filled.|||Your on the right track. Fill with motor off. and replace the thermosat.also
Handy tip. Use KY Jelly (yes really) on the water pump o-ring to help hold it in place and keep it from getting pinched during installation. DO NOT use grease, Vaseline, etc because petroleum products will deteriorate the o-ring and cause a leak. Have fun.|||Partner you are correct in the list. But change the thermostat also. Fill it cold at first and the leave cap off and bring temp up to operation temp. top off and replace cap and look for leaks.|||Drain the radiator, remove the old pump, clean off old gasket material, apply gasket sealant and gasket, mount new pump, refill radiator with 50/50 solution of anti-freeze and H2O, start engine look for leaks and top off radiator after engine comes to temp and the thermostat opens.|||go to your library and get the repair manual for your car. follow it and you won%26#039;t need a check list.|||save the recipt for the water pump.im supprised that one lasted this long. hire a mechanic he can do the timing belt also its due for one. he already knows there is a bleeder to let the air out as the engine is re filled.|||Your on the right track. Fill with motor off. and replace the thermosat.also
Changing water pump on 87 Honda Accord?
I was trying to change the water pump on a 87 honda accord and I am having trouble getting that bottom bolt off, its under the timing belt lower cover and that seems to be held in place by the pulley. Is there an easy way to get the water pump off?|||you need to remove the timing covers, and you may as well replace the timing belt at the same time. you will pull the rest of your hair out trying to do it any other way. it is easiest to break the three pulley bolts loose before loostening the belt.|||i own a shop,and on those i always remove the pulley and stuff it saves a lot of time by doing this,and its a lot easier to do this way,but if i was you id just take it off and get it out of my way good luck i hope this helps.|||Yep Dodge Man is correct. That bolt is tight too. I usually use an Impact Gun to remove it. There is also a tool available to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt. I have that tool too :) Working as a technician you acquire lots of special tools.
Do i need to change water pump when changing cambelt? Peugeot 306?
I am looking to change the cambelt on my 306, 1.4 petrol.
Do i need to change the water pump at the same time?
Thanks|||good idea!! As it is only a few more dollars for the part and no extra labor..if it fails later you will pay for the labor again and most likely will damage the belt..|||You don%26#039;t need to to, but given that the water pump is buried under the timing belt and cannot be removed without the timing belt coming of, it makes seance to do the water pump at the same time.
Ja.|||No unless its failing what it should be doing.|||No you don%26#039;t unless there is something wrong with your pump.|||Might as well, they%26#039;re not expensive and it%26#039;ll give you a peace of mind.|||good idea to do that once you have gotten that far to maintenance the belt do water pump so you wont have to go back later in time to do pump and all the labor cost you can save by doing both now.|||You should if it is driven y the same belt or if ti is under timing cover. Less money in long run of it all.|||yes do it !!
Do i need to change the water pump at the same time?
Thanks|||good idea!! As it is only a few more dollars for the part and no extra labor..if it fails later you will pay for the labor again and most likely will damage the belt..|||You don%26#039;t need to to, but given that the water pump is buried under the timing belt and cannot be removed without the timing belt coming of, it makes seance to do the water pump at the same time.
Ja.|||No unless its failing what it should be doing.|||No you don%26#039;t unless there is something wrong with your pump.|||Might as well, they%26#039;re not expensive and it%26#039;ll give you a peace of mind.|||good idea to do that once you have gotten that far to maintenance the belt do water pump so you wont have to go back later in time to do pump and all the labor cost you can save by doing both now.|||You should if it is driven y the same belt or if ti is under timing cover. Less money in long run of it all.|||yes do it !!
Changing water pump on Chevy Silverado. Remove water radiator?
I am about to change the water pump on my 2000 silverado. I just bought the maintenance book so I know basically how to do it. My question is does the radiator have to come out to change the water pump or can I just take the fan off. and if so how?|||the special tool he mention is basically for fords and imports. gm fans are mostly bolted on with 10 mm bolts, anyway just take off the fan the radiator can stay|||the fan comes of with a special tool and some of them are reverse threads(clockwise to remove). you will need to rent or buy the tool that has two large wrenches, one to loosen the fan bolt and one to go across the 4 bolts that hold the pulley on to the pump. The upper shroud comes off and it is smart to drain the radiator first to make less of a mess|||I just just put a new water pump on my 2000 silverado.
You do not have to take the radiator out, just be careful not to %26#039;%26#039;poke%26#039;%26#039; any holes in it.
You do not have to take the radiator out, just be careful not to %26#039;%26#039;poke%26#039;%26#039; any holes in it.
Is it worth changing a water pump on a 93 Saturn with 170K?
I have a 93 Saturn SC1 coupe and Im pretty sure it%26#039;s gonna need the water pump replaced. I paid 600 for it in november, and i%26#039;ve gotten almost 10k out of it without a major issue but the rings are shot i think, it blows oil a lot.Is it worth ripping it apart for the water pump? Any suggestions would be great.|||We handle HOW, it%26#039;s up to you to provide WHY..|||no
How can I fix my timing that i must have messed up while changing my water pump?
I changed my water pump on my 1996 Chrysler concord had to take the belt off to do it. must have messed up the timing...PLEASE HELP!!!!! Thanks..|||Did you set the engine to TDC before taking the belt out?
If engine is aligned to TDC, you just have to reinstall the belt. If you did not set to TDC before taking out, then you are screwed- tow your car to a mechanic.
Here is what mechanic has to do. Take all spark plugs out, place a socket over the crankshaft and turn the cam and crank independently to set it to TDC mark. During the turning process, the valve may contact piston. By hand turning, you can feel this condition and adjust the cam to work around this problem. After setting the engine to TDC, then install the timing belt and retest.|||You need to find a timing belt diagram. It will be in a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car. While you are doing this you might as well replace the belt.
Anyway the diagram will show you how to line up the timing marks.|||You probably will need to tear it back down, and follow a Haynes manual step by step on how to get it back in time. Probably the usual.. get the #1 piston to TDC on a compression stroke and then line up the cam / crank marks. Not sure if that is the right set-up for your vehicle, but they are all pretty similar to this.|||sure they are timing marks on most cars or you line up the rotor with the number one plug wire also theres a marker down on the bottom pulley you have to line up... if you going to do the work best you get a book about it they do wonders|||Someone tell me what a water pump belt has to do with timing. I am total confused.|||tear it back down bring it to tdc. no1 were the marks line up to see wich one is off and if you did not loosen the cam gear bolts. reset the timing as follows with the marks on the cams lined up between the two dots on the case and the crank one tooth off to your left as you face the motor install the belt from the crank to drivers side cam note probabaly wont stay tightthat is ok now using asmall clamp hold the belt to the cam and run it under the water pump and over the pass. side cam keep ing belt tight between cams clamp belt to cam gear and install over tensioner pulley pull up on belt near tensioner as you roll crank back to mark this picks up the slack and sets it right hold tension on belt with tensioner pulley while installing hydralic tensioner cylender.|||Wow, you do have a problem, I need to know what size the engine is to help you though, I done one yesterday myself, they are a pain in the A#%. Matter of fact I own a 99 model.|||assuming you didnt mess with igniton system , huh?
you set the timing for TDC on the Exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke.
( or who knows)
put crank at TDC ( for number #1 cylinder.)
what is says in manual, I have car here, that%26#039;s #4 .
then the cams must be set to the correct TDC position.
install the tbelt.
now crank engine over (plugs out)( with wrench )
and watch the action of #1 cylinder piston and the action of the cams. TDC , CW rotation from front, Intake valve opens , then close, then compression, TDC and then power stroke both valves must be close , then pistion rising and exhaust valve opens and ends at TDC exh. done.
( you just validated proper action of #1 cylinder and cam)
if that looks good,double check exact tooth counts and timing marks one more time on the Cam sprockets.
per the manual instructions this engine.
follow any belt pretensioning rules per manual.
if all that is good,
button up.
measure twice , then cut ,as carpenters say.
If engine is aligned to TDC, you just have to reinstall the belt. If you did not set to TDC before taking out, then you are screwed- tow your car to a mechanic.
Here is what mechanic has to do. Take all spark plugs out, place a socket over the crankshaft and turn the cam and crank independently to set it to TDC mark. During the turning process, the valve may contact piston. By hand turning, you can feel this condition and adjust the cam to work around this problem. After setting the engine to TDC, then install the timing belt and retest.|||You need to find a timing belt diagram. It will be in a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car. While you are doing this you might as well replace the belt.
Anyway the diagram will show you how to line up the timing marks.|||You probably will need to tear it back down, and follow a Haynes manual step by step on how to get it back in time. Probably the usual.. get the #1 piston to TDC on a compression stroke and then line up the cam / crank marks. Not sure if that is the right set-up for your vehicle, but they are all pretty similar to this.|||sure they are timing marks on most cars or you line up the rotor with the number one plug wire also theres a marker down on the bottom pulley you have to line up... if you going to do the work best you get a book about it they do wonders|||Someone tell me what a water pump belt has to do with timing. I am total confused.|||tear it back down bring it to tdc. no1 were the marks line up to see wich one is off and if you did not loosen the cam gear bolts. reset the timing as follows with the marks on the cams lined up between the two dots on the case and the crank one tooth off to your left as you face the motor install the belt from the crank to drivers side cam note probabaly wont stay tightthat is ok now using asmall clamp hold the belt to the cam and run it under the water pump and over the pass. side cam keep ing belt tight between cams clamp belt to cam gear and install over tensioner pulley pull up on belt near tensioner as you roll crank back to mark this picks up the slack and sets it right hold tension on belt with tensioner pulley while installing hydralic tensioner cylender.|||Wow, you do have a problem, I need to know what size the engine is to help you though, I done one yesterday myself, they are a pain in the A#%. Matter of fact I own a 99 model.|||assuming you didnt mess with igniton system , huh?
you set the timing for TDC on the Exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke.
( or who knows)
put crank at TDC ( for number #1 cylinder.)
what is says in manual, I have car here, that%26#039;s #4 .
then the cams must be set to the correct TDC position.
install the tbelt.
now crank engine over (plugs out)( with wrench )
and watch the action of #1 cylinder piston and the action of the cams. TDC , CW rotation from front, Intake valve opens , then close, then compression, TDC and then power stroke both valves must be close , then pistion rising and exhaust valve opens and ends at TDC exh. done.
( you just validated proper action of #1 cylinder and cam)
if that looks good,double check exact tooth counts and timing marks one more time on the Cam sprockets.
per the manual instructions this engine.
follow any belt pretensioning rules per manual.
if all that is good,
button up.
measure twice , then cut ,as carpenters say.
Changing a Water Pump on a Dodge Durango Question please Help!?
I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9 4wd with 110k,miles and my water pump is leaking it need to be replaced , When I am changing the water pump do I need to remove the timing chain or touch it to be able to remove the water pump? If I need to remove the timing chain should I replaced the timing chain in the gasket?|||No, the water pump on a 360 (5.9) is driven by the serpentine belt, not the timing chain, and there is no reason to mess with the timing chain. A lot of in line 4%26#039;s are set up where the timing BELT drives the pump (Chrysler%26#039;s 2.0 and 2.4 engines come to mind) but the 5.9 is just a fancied up 360 LA series engine that Chrysler has been building (and improving) since like 1970
How do I get the tentioner back in place after changing my water pump?
I have a 91 saturn 5 speed. I changed the water pump but now I can%26#039;t get the tentioner thing to go back in place in order to turn the serpentine belt. Is there a secret to this? Any input will be greatly apprieciated.|||I hope you replaced the belt and the tensioner also.
At that age, they probably should have been changed long ago. If the belt breaks, it could ruin the engine (depends on engine type).|||there is a nubb on the back of the tensioner that fits into a hole on your engine that lines it right up. good luck|||Its a spring loaded tensioner if you turned it to take the belt off and it didn%26#039;t spring back the other way its bad.
At that age, they probably should have been changed long ago. If the belt breaks, it could ruin the engine (depends on engine type).|||there is a nubb on the back of the tensioner that fits into a hole on your engine that lines it right up. good luck|||Its a spring loaded tensioner if you turned it to take the belt off and it didn%26#039;t spring back the other way its bad.
When changing a water pump do I need to take out the radiator?
I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 L . I thinking of trying to change the water pump. Was wondering if I had to take out the radiator or will it be enough clearance to do it without taking out the radiator.|||Not familiar with that particular one but on most cars the pump can be removed without removing the radiator. I%26#039;d try it. You can always back up and remove the radiator if the clearance is insufficient.|||No you dont have to take out the radiator but you might change the timming belt.|||take it out, it will give you much more working space and you will only damage it if you try without.|||I can%26#039;t see why you would. That%26#039;s a front wheel drive car right? The engine sits sideways so the water pump would be on the passenger side of the car.|||no ,there%26#039;s no reason to remove the radiator unless you just want to,it wont be in the way of replacing anything on the front of the engine,good luck.
When changing the water pump on my 95 monte should I also change the timing belt?
How long does it take to change the water pump %26amp; its a 3.4 engine|||You don%26#039;t have a timing belt.|||It would be a good idea to change the belt any time you do work of this nature. Don%26#039;t throw it away though, keep it in the trunk. My old man once saved several hours by having his old one in the trunk of his %26#039;78 Monte. Just replaced it on the spot and was on his way.
Do you really need to change the water pump when changing the timing belt?
How often do water pumps and their gaskets last? Can It wait until the next timing belt change? My car has 60,000 and is due to have the timing belt done but due to the high price of the job I was wondering If I could skip the water pump for now. What happens if the water pump fails? Thank you.|||Guy above never really answered the question. So here goes..
No.. you do not need to change the water pump when changing the timing belt. You can, while you are in there. It saves you the cost of the labor, you only pay for the part that way.
Hope that helps!|||Water pumps and there seals last quite along time with regular maintenance. Some times, the life or your vehicle! You water pump wont fail cause your changing the timing belt. I would just have it cleaned out and re-fitted to your car after the timing belt is done. No need to worry about it.
If it does fail (witch it shouldn%26#039;t) your car would over heat as it would not be pumping the coolant through your engine block to keep it cool.
Thanks!|||I%26#039;m not sure what the previous responder meant by proper maintenance on a water pump and gasket. Other than changing the coolant there is very little you can do the maintain a water pump. There are lubricants available but since it is a sealed bearing they are basically useless.
Most of your repair cost on a timing belt is labor, which will be repeated if you have to have the water pump done later. The days of lifetime water pumps are gone, and since you got 60K on this one I%26#039;d replace it and you should be fine for the next 60K. Remember, if it goes (and since it%26#039;s buried you probably won%26#039;t know until it fails completely) and you don%26#039;t recognize it immediately; you%26#039;ll be paying for a rebuilt engine. It%26#039;s a great investment.|||If you do a regular maintenance for the water pump it will work for many years in your car ,so you can skip it for now even if you will do an over all repair of your engine.|||No. At 120k , it mignt be a worthwhle preventive idea, if it%26#039;s one that takes a lot of labor to get at. A simple car w/o AC or PS, it%26#039;s usually not that big a deal to get at as needed - when it starts to drip.|||the gasket will last until it starts to leak thats when u need to change it
No.. you do not need to change the water pump when changing the timing belt. You can, while you are in there. It saves you the cost of the labor, you only pay for the part that way.
Hope that helps!|||Water pumps and there seals last quite along time with regular maintenance. Some times, the life or your vehicle! You water pump wont fail cause your changing the timing belt. I would just have it cleaned out and re-fitted to your car after the timing belt is done. No need to worry about it.
If it does fail (witch it shouldn%26#039;t) your car would over heat as it would not be pumping the coolant through your engine block to keep it cool.
Thanks!|||I%26#039;m not sure what the previous responder meant by proper maintenance on a water pump and gasket. Other than changing the coolant there is very little you can do the maintain a water pump. There are lubricants available but since it is a sealed bearing they are basically useless.
Most of your repair cost on a timing belt is labor, which will be repeated if you have to have the water pump done later. The days of lifetime water pumps are gone, and since you got 60K on this one I%26#039;d replace it and you should be fine for the next 60K. Remember, if it goes (and since it%26#039;s buried you probably won%26#039;t know until it fails completely) and you don%26#039;t recognize it immediately; you%26#039;ll be paying for a rebuilt engine. It%26#039;s a great investment.|||If you do a regular maintenance for the water pump it will work for many years in your car ,so you can skip it for now even if you will do an over all repair of your engine.|||No. At 120k , it mignt be a worthwhle preventive idea, if it%26#039;s one that takes a lot of labor to get at. A simple car w/o AC or PS, it%26#039;s usually not that big a deal to get at as needed - when it starts to drip.|||the gasket will last until it starts to leak thats when u need to change it
What would make a 1997 Jeep Town and Country have these problems after changing the water pump?
After changing the water pump, the engine overheats. Top hose going to the radiator is hot, but the bottom hose is not. There%26#039;s no heat comeing out of the A/C vents when I turn the heater on.|||i agree with the water pump rotation but 1st id check the serpentine belt routing to be sure its correct removing the thermostat even if bad wont really help much as water wont stay in radiator long enough to cool the engine|||make sure you have a mixture of atleast close to 50/50 antifreeze and water in your radiator and if thats not it then i would check and see if you have a/c fluid in your a/c unit.|||First thing to ask is, did it do it before? If not it%26#039;s possible the thermostat could be stuck shut, or you may have an air pocket in the cooling system that needs to burp out.|||well when is the last time you had your radiator flushed it maybe stopped up
is your fan running fast enough on the front i know that sounds funny but my mom had a vehicle that was giong about the same thing and the fan was wore out
and if your sure it was the water pump causing the problem how bad did the problem get before you fixed it?
you could have warp a head if it got to hot or blown a head gasket and antifreeze or water which ever you use would mix with your oil and you will still over heat the head gasket might not even be a noticeable leak then there an engine
personal experience|||You likely have air trapped (pockets) in the system, parking the car with the engine higher (on a hill) when you burp the cooling systen supposed to help too.http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=na鈥?/a>|||Possible you have installed the wrong pump,,,,doesn%26#039;t happen very often,,but you can get a water pump which was built to rotate in a different direction,,,of you made the mistake of getting one,,,then your symptoms make sense.
These pumps are not obvious from the outside.
Other than that,,,check your thermostat,,,or try removing the thermostat all to-gether,,,see if that makes a difference.|||next time get some one that knows what she is doing to work on it|||thermostat maybe?|||need a new thermostat id say
is your fan running fast enough on the front i know that sounds funny but my mom had a vehicle that was giong about the same thing and the fan was wore out
and if your sure it was the water pump causing the problem how bad did the problem get before you fixed it?
you could have warp a head if it got to hot or blown a head gasket and antifreeze or water which ever you use would mix with your oil and you will still over heat the head gasket might not even be a noticeable leak then there an engine
personal experience|||You likely have air trapped (pockets) in the system, parking the car with the engine higher (on a hill) when you burp the cooling systen supposed to help too.http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=na鈥?/a>|||Possible you have installed the wrong pump,,,,doesn%26#039;t happen very often,,but you can get a water pump which was built to rotate in a different direction,,,of you made the mistake of getting one,,,then your symptoms make sense.
These pumps are not obvious from the outside.
Other than that,,,check your thermostat,,,or try removing the thermostat all to-gether,,,see if that makes a difference.|||next time get some one that knows what she is doing to work on it|||thermostat maybe?|||need a new thermostat id say
Should i use RTV when changing a water pump ?
I am changing the water pump in my 1992 Toyota Corolla and I am wondering if RTV should be applied to the gasket that seals the water pump and the engine block. Should I use the RTV with the gasket or just use the gasket dry ? I have never had a car that had the water pump bolted to the block the way this one does . I want to do the job correctly so I don%26#039;t have to do the job again anytime soon.|||Use good %26#039; ol # 2 permatex. Lay a bead that%26#039;s about equal to a toothpick on both sides of yer gasket. =^ )|||I used some #2 Permatex and things seem to be staying drip free. I hope things continue dry. The previous owner of the car put the water pump together without the gasket. I owned the car for 3 years before it started to leak, so I feel lucky it lasted as long as it did.
|||Use RTV in fact for some installations Toyota recommends it, just don%26#039;t go overboard. I usually apply a bead about 2mm thick or you can carefully smear it around with your fingers. If you use too much it will extrude into places where you don%26#039;t want it to, the pieces can break off and cause all sorts of mischief.|||use barely any sealant ..just enough too evenly make the gasket sticky on both sides|||you are not supposed to use rtv on a water pump however every one that I have done i put a TINY amount on the gasket just to make is stick to the pump to make it easier but do not use it as a gasket and do not let it overlap into the pump. Basically if you can do it without then great but if you cant seem to gegt the gasket to stay put then a little wont hurt.|||NO RTV or Permatex! RTV will melt into the cooling system and cause more problems! Permatex :-D Only if you %26quot;Never%26quot; want to get the water pump off again. When Permatex dries with heat it all but welds things together. I use a little Anti-seize or light coating of grease to the gasket soft so it can be taken off easy the next time.|||NO,...Indian head (thats the brand name) or a spray.
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|||Use RTV in fact for some installations Toyota recommends it, just don%26#039;t go overboard. I usually apply a bead about 2mm thick or you can carefully smear it around with your fingers. If you use too much it will extrude into places where you don%26#039;t want it to, the pieces can break off and cause all sorts of mischief.|||use barely any sealant ..just enough too evenly make the gasket sticky on both sides|||you are not supposed to use rtv on a water pump however every one that I have done i put a TINY amount on the gasket just to make is stick to the pump to make it easier but do not use it as a gasket and do not let it overlap into the pump. Basically if you can do it without then great but if you cant seem to gegt the gasket to stay put then a little wont hurt.|||NO RTV or Permatex! RTV will melt into the cooling system and cause more problems! Permatex :-D Only if you %26quot;Never%26quot; want to get the water pump off again. When Permatex dries with heat it all but welds things together. I use a little Anti-seize or light coating of grease to the gasket soft so it can be taken off easy the next time.|||NO,...Indian head (thats the brand name) or a spray.
My car won't start after changing the water pump. What have I done wrong?
My car is a Honda Accord, 1995cc,. Year of Make: 1994.
(Of course changing the water pump, I had to remove the timing belt and the timing balancer belt and all the external belts).
On completion of the job, when I tried to start, I heard the starter turn as if there is no load. The engine does not turn at all. Please help.|||timings out|||Sounds like you messed up the timing belt.|||It%26#039;s probably out of time, did you have easy to understand illustrations?|||Sounds a though something is disconnected or the starter is not engaging in the engine. Take the starter out and make sure the engaging cog is loose.|||You probably don%26#039;t have the timing belt on properly|||sounds like it is in a bind but try turning it at the balancer|||buy a hanes book and see if the starter is attatched to the crank|||you have knacked the timing up, you may now of chucked a valve|||check your battery, it may be flat and wants recharging
jono|||Chances are the timing has been disturbed, perhaps you%26#039;ve re-installed it one tooth off. I just did the same thing on a Toyota after a waterpump/headgasket change. OOPS!|||I wouldn%26#039;t crank it anymore until I double checked the timing belt synchronization between the crank shaft and camshaft since you have no compression.|||Stupid!
Go to a mechanic unless you are one lousy one!
If you are sick See a DOCTOR!
Dont Try to be TOO Smart!!
Let others do their Jobs ,and Others will let
you do YOURS!!!!|||If the starter is turning un-loaded then potentially the timing between the head and crack is out of sync.|||You need to check the timing marks. When you install the belt you have to line up the camshaft mark to its mark on the block and the crankshaft mark to its mark on the block. If they are 1 tooth off it wont run properly. BE CAREFUL. THE MOTOR YOU HAVE IS CALLED AN INTERFERENCE MOTOR. If they are not timed properly the piston can come up and hit a valve when opened. NOT PRETTY......|||You%26#039;re gonna have to open it up again realign all the timing marks get a book.Also you will have to align the balance shaft belt.Like the last guy said good luck you may have slapped a valve therefore ruining your motor.next time let someone else that knows do it.|||Timing belt is not replaced properly. Be careful!!!!! you will destroy your engine!!!!! , or you may have already if you tried to start it!|||The problem is with the starter. I had this problem with a previous car that had a pre engaged cog to drive the flywheel. The thing works with the solenoid and the engaging cog is thrown into engagement by the solenoid just before contact is made. It is possible that the solenoid has dirt in it and that the throw is not enough, I removed the started and dismantled the solenoid which needed cleaning before reassembly. Worked fine from them. The only other possibility is that a few teeth on the starter ring are missing at one point, so you could try to turn the engine round to a different position and have another go at starting. If it turns then it is the ring which would mean dismantling the engine and gearbox from each other and replacing the ring.
(Of course changing the water pump, I had to remove the timing belt and the timing balancer belt and all the external belts).
On completion of the job, when I tried to start, I heard the starter turn as if there is no load. The engine does not turn at all. Please help.|||timings out|||Sounds like you messed up the timing belt.|||It%26#039;s probably out of time, did you have easy to understand illustrations?|||Sounds a though something is disconnected or the starter is not engaging in the engine. Take the starter out and make sure the engaging cog is loose.|||You probably don%26#039;t have the timing belt on properly|||sounds like it is in a bind but try turning it at the balancer|||buy a hanes book and see if the starter is attatched to the crank|||you have knacked the timing up, you may now of chucked a valve|||check your battery, it may be flat and wants recharging
jono|||Chances are the timing has been disturbed, perhaps you%26#039;ve re-installed it one tooth off. I just did the same thing on a Toyota after a waterpump/headgasket change. OOPS!|||I wouldn%26#039;t crank it anymore until I double checked the timing belt synchronization between the crank shaft and camshaft since you have no compression.|||Stupid!
Go to a mechanic unless you are one lousy one!
If you are sick See a DOCTOR!
Dont Try to be TOO Smart!!
Let others do their Jobs ,and Others will let
you do YOURS!!!!|||If the starter is turning un-loaded then potentially the timing between the head and crack is out of sync.|||You need to check the timing marks. When you install the belt you have to line up the camshaft mark to its mark on the block and the crankshaft mark to its mark on the block. If they are 1 tooth off it wont run properly. BE CAREFUL. THE MOTOR YOU HAVE IS CALLED AN INTERFERENCE MOTOR. If they are not timed properly the piston can come up and hit a valve when opened. NOT PRETTY......|||You%26#039;re gonna have to open it up again realign all the timing marks get a book.Also you will have to align the balance shaft belt.Like the last guy said good luck you may have slapped a valve therefore ruining your motor.next time let someone else that knows do it.|||Timing belt is not replaced properly. Be careful!!!!! you will destroy your engine!!!!! , or you may have already if you tried to start it!|||The problem is with the starter. I had this problem with a previous car that had a pre engaged cog to drive the flywheel. The thing works with the solenoid and the engaging cog is thrown into engagement by the solenoid just before contact is made. It is possible that the solenoid has dirt in it and that the throw is not enough, I removed the started and dismantled the solenoid which needed cleaning before reassembly. Worked fine from them. The only other possibility is that a few teeth on the starter ring are missing at one point, so you could try to turn the engine round to a different position and have another go at starting. If it turns then it is the ring which would mean dismantling the engine and gearbox from each other and replacing the ring.
How much is changing a water pump for Camry V6?
I%26#039;ve been asking around about changing a water pump, but the quotes given by different car repairshops have been very different, some give me the quote of over $500( parts plus labour) but some give me the quote of just $75 plus $140 labour, so what is a more reasonable price, with a reasonable quality?|||the water pump costs about 70 dollars and the time it takes is 3 hrs or less...... look for a price around $225..... thats a reasonable figure
Changing Water pump on a 97 Dodge Dakota w/v-8. How do I get the fan and clutch seperated from the pump?
I%26#039;ve taken the pump off. The three hoses are removed. I have the impeller, the front of the pump, the drive pulley, a large bronze nut, the fan and the clutch. Does the replacement pump come with a fan and clutch on it? How do I seperate the two?|||No you must take the fan clutch and fan off, that%26#039;s not easy sometimes, usually the fan and clutch are pulled off using a pulling tool before you remove the pump, take it to a machine shop or Auto zone may help pull it. good luck|||the fan screwes onto the water pump get a wrench that fits and screw it off(left hand thread)also you will probly need to hit the wrench to break it loose.|||The fan clutch (and the fan bolted to it) threads onto the water pump. You can rent a fan clutch service tool at any parts store that rents or loans automotive service tools.|||ITS A TWO PART WRENCH SYSTEM USED TO REMOVE IT AND IT COUNTA CLOCK WISE BORROW IT FROM AUTO ZONE IT WILL BE A DEPOSIT FOR IT BECAUSE YOU DON%26#039;T WANT TO BUY IT BECAUSE YOU WON%26#039;T USE IT FOR THE LIFE OF THAT CAR GOOD LUCK....|||the pump is sold by its self.
should be 4 bolts on the fan to remove
should be 4 bolts on the fan to remove
Changing water pump on a Ford Escort 2000 model? Can you think of missing item?
The mechanic told me that I need to purchase a;
new water pump
fan belt kit
3 litres of coolant
and there was 1 more thing, can you think of what else I might need?|||Timing belt and tensioner? Tube of instant gasket? Tools? Water? Haynes Manual? Tea Bags? Beer?
Most of them would be on my list.
Except the tea bags!|||timing belt|||WP gasket?|||thermostat and gasket if you are going in as far as the water pump, do it all while you are in there, beats doing it all over needlessly|||Neva done 1 on a ford escort really
BUT A TIMING BELT AND MAYBE AN ALTERNATOR BELT DEPENDANT on the setup and maybe you%26#039;l get some seals with it, also mostimes a gasket!|||wate rpump gasket and thermostat|||Change the coolant hoses while you are at it. Thermostat too.|||A timing belt tensioner is always suggested also when the belt is being replaced|||I, too, would change the thermostat and possibly the hoses while you%26#039;re at it, to save future problems and more down time. Make sure you get the gasket with the water pump (and the %26#039;stat).
You might also take the opportunity to flush out the cooling system before refilling.
new water pump
fan belt kit
3 litres of coolant
and there was 1 more thing, can you think of what else I might need?|||Timing belt and tensioner? Tube of instant gasket? Tools? Water? Haynes Manual? Tea Bags? Beer?
Most of them would be on my list.
Except the tea bags!|||timing belt|||WP gasket?|||thermostat and gasket if you are going in as far as the water pump, do it all while you are in there, beats doing it all over needlessly|||Neva done 1 on a ford escort really
BUT A TIMING BELT AND MAYBE AN ALTERNATOR BELT DEPENDANT on the setup and maybe you%26#039;l get some seals with it, also mostimes a gasket!|||wate rpump gasket and thermostat|||Change the coolant hoses while you are at it. Thermostat too.|||A timing belt tensioner is always suggested also when the belt is being replaced|||I, too, would change the thermostat and possibly the hoses while you%26#039;re at it, to save future problems and more down time. Make sure you get the gasket with the water pump (and the %26#039;stat).
You might also take the opportunity to flush out the cooling system before refilling.
Changing water pump in 93 camry need info?
im changing my water pump and timing belt is there anything else i need to do or replace while it is apart|||On that old of a vehicle i would not change much else except what it needs for general maintenance because if you start you will put the engine out of balance with the rest of the parts and everything will start happening. good luck|||That%26#039;s pretty much it, unless you find one of the bearings in the belt rollers noisy.|||Most people do replace those 2 parts at the same time because they%26#039;re so closely related. It might not be a bad idea to replace the timing belt tensioners. Either the spring or the bearings can go bad on them without much warning. Certainly, I would at least check them very closely. And maybe the crankshaft seal if your gasket set doesn%26#039;t already come with one.
One thing to consider is whether yours is an interference engine. I%26#039;d be much more likely to replace the tensioners, if your engine is. Check these 2 links here to find out.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/tbelt/toyota鈥?/a>
You also might as well check your serpentine belt tensioner closely too, while you%26#039;re in the neighborhood, although not as critical.
Here%26#039;s a link to a repair guide, in case you need one.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
One thing to consider is whether yours is an interference engine. I%26#039;d be much more likely to replace the tensioners, if your engine is. Check these 2 links here to find out.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/tbelt/toyota鈥?/a>
You also might as well check your serpentine belt tensioner closely too, while you%26#039;re in the neighborhood, although not as critical.
Here%26#039;s a link to a repair guide, in case you need one.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
Will changing my water pump come with a radiator flush as well?
I am going to have my water pump changed soon. I was wondering, since it appears most of my coolant has leaked away and since I am going to get my water pump fixed to get my coolant leak under control, will this mean I will automatically be getting a radiator flush as well when I take it to the mechanic or would I have to get that handled separately from the water pump problem?|||its probobly separate, but ask nicely and they may throw it in. or you may have to pay for it.|||u can have them do it, probably wont be free. but it is a good idea|||extra charge. sorry!|||Probably separately, which sucks. But, it would also depend on who you went to too.
How do you reinstall the lower unit after changing water pump?
I have a 1985 mercury 90hp inline 6. I just replaced the the water pump, and now I am having trouble after I bolt the lower unit back on. I%26#039;m having trouble with the gears. The prop will turn the flywheel when rotated counter clockwise, but when rotated clockwise, it makes a clicking sound. When I place in N, F, R it does nothing to change this. I%26#039;m about to go nuts! can anyone help me.|||It sounds like you have the shift dog, at the end of the shift shaft, turned out of alignment. You have to drop the lower unit and turn it until it engages forward, neutral, and reverse. Once you have it in neutral, leave it there when you put the lower unit back on. Make sure your shift is on neutral also.|||Hate to tell you this but it sounds like you may have something in backwords or upside down. The best way to solve that I think would be Take it apart make sure you grease the berrings if you put them in dry that could have somthing to do with the click. If you have a mercury dealor somewhere close talk to them they may be able to show you pictures of what it looks like
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